Salt-free water softeners vs salt-based water softeners: pros and cons If you're deciding between salt-free and salt-based water softeners, here are the key benefits of going salt-free: • No salt required: Salt-free systems don't require ongoing salt refills, saving you time and effort. • Longer lifespan: Salt-free systems, like Springwell, can last up to 50 years, while salt-based systems typically last only 10-15 years. • Environmental benefits: Salt-free systems don’t discharge salt into the environment, reducing their impact on water treatment plants and the ecosystem. • No maintenance for drains or electricity: These systems don’t require drains, motors, or electrical outlets, making installation simpler and reducing maintenance needs. • Water heater protection: Salt-free systems prevent the corrosion of water heaters that can occur with salt-based systems.

Why install a salt-free water softener with a whole-house charcoal filter? Installing a salt-free water softener paired with a whole-house charcoal filter offers these key benefits: • Improved water quality: The charcoal filter removes chlorine and other impurities, making the water cleaner and helping the salt-free system perform better. • Longer lifespan for plumbing: By removing chlorine and other chemicals, your pipes, fixtures, and appliances are protected from corrosion and buildup. • Better taste and smell: The filter improves the taste and odor of your water, making it healthier and more enjoyable for drinking and cooking. • Eco-friendly: Salt-free systems don’t rely on salt, reducing environmental impact and avoiding the need for salt replenishment.

How does Flo by Moen automatic leak detection save money on water damage repairs? Automatic leak detection systems, such as Flo by Moen and Phyn, can save you money by: • Preventing water damage: Early leak detection prevents major water damage, which can lead to costly repairs and replacements of floors, walls, and appliances. • Reducing water waste: These systems help you monitor water usage and stop leaks before they waste large amounts of water, lowering your water bill. • Insurance discounts: Many insurance companies offer discounts for homes equipped with leak detection systems, helping you save on premiums. • Remote monitoring: You can monitor your water usage while you're away, preventing unexpected damage during vacations or business trips.

How to measure home water pressure and ideal PSI range for plumbing Measuring your home's water pressure is easy and only requires a water pressure gauge: • Attach the gauge: Screw the water pressure gauge onto an outdoor faucet or the faucet closest to the main water supply. • Turn on the faucet: Check the gauge for a reading. The ideal water pressure for most homes is between 40-60 PSI. • What if my pressure is too high or low?: If your pressure is above 60 PSI, it can damage pipes and appliances. If it's below 40 PSI, there could be a plumbing issue like a clog or leak. • Adjusting pressure: You can install a pressure-reducing valve to lower high pressure or check for blockages to fix low pressure.

* a non-condensing tankless has only one heat exchanger.  Cold water passes through it and flame heats it up.  The exhaust that comes out is about 400 degrees, so any vapor that might be in it leaves the building as steam.  Because of the hot acidic gas that comes out, these need a stainless-steel venting system.  As such they are usually a poor choice for retrofits (replacing a regular water heater with tankless).  The cons is that they tend to be louder than a condensing unit, use more gas, and make less hot water (about 9gpm max).  On the pro side they are cheaper, and you don't have to figure out where the condensate will go.  The newest models do come with built-in recirc pumps.      * a condensing tankless has 2 heat exchangers.  The first one acts "normal" i.e. water goes through and flame heats it up.  It also makes 400 degree exhaust, but instead of throwing this hot gas away, these units recycle it into a second heat exchanger that pre-heats incoming water.  The final exhaust is only about 110-130 degrees.  For this reason, any acidic condensate in the exhaust will not exit the building it will instead drip back down the exhaust pipe and needs to be collected and removed via a drain pipe.  If this acidic vapor touches the galvanized metal of a typical water heater vent it forms a strong acid and will ruin the heat exchanger and void the warranty.  For this reason a 2" pvc pipe must be used instead.  The cons for these units is that they cost more and we have to figure out where to drain the condensate.  On the pro side they are generally quieter and produce more hot water (about 11gpm max).  They are more efficient and may qualify for a Federal Rebate (check with your accountant as the rebates tend to change year by year).

​    * A dedicated recirc line is when the builder brings a return line from the farthest sink back to the location of the water heater and puts a pump on it.  In this way hot water is circulated around the line so that the customer doesn't have to wait too long for hot water to arrive.  In some cases multiple return lines can be blended into one final exit.  I personally like circular systems (similar to the old Radiator steam lines of steam-heated homes).  Most manufacturers advise a maximum of 100-feet of return line at 1/2" diameter piping, and up to 200-feet of return line at 3/4" diameter piping.  If you do happen to have a large home with only a 1/2" diameter recirc line, it is important to upgrade the line to 3/4" at least from where it exits the wall to the pump, so as not to further restrict the flow.  This is because shut-off valves, check valves, and purge valves will restrict a little bit.  If you upgrade to 3/4" then even after restriction it will still be larger than the original 1/2" line.  A restricted line can cause a recirc pump to burn out prematurely and in general it takes much longer for the water heater to heat the line.      * A comfort valve system is a good alternative when the home doesn't have a dedicated recirc line but the customer wants faster delivery of hot water.  This involves placing comfort valves under the furthest sink.  In many cases 2 comfort valves need to be used especially when the water heater is in a central location.  It is important that the angle stops under the sink be in good working order.  Sometimes new supply lines are also needed.